I wonder what you feel about the Chinese watch. When people hear "watch made in China," what is it that comes to mind? It is likely a combination of both positive and negative things. I think most people think of either inexpensively made mass produced watches, or counterfeit luxury goods. That would be an under-inclusive, yet accurate description of the goods that come out of China.
Parmigiani is perhaps most famous for its Bugatti watch, but beyond that, the brand actually has a very interesting, though brief, history. In this special feature, our contributor, David Bredan, spent six days with Parmigiani, learning more about their history and learning how they make watches. This is an in-depth, behind-the-scenes look at one of the most promising brands right now.
The optical sensor is connected to a quartz regulator (of course) which serves as a reference time. The system only knows how accurate the 4Hz mechanical movement in the EMC is if there is a reference to compare the results with. The electronic oscillator is much more precise operating at 16,000,000 Hz (much faster than your normal quartz movement, but it can do that as it doesn't need to operate all the time). This horsepower is there to tell you how accurate your comparatively snail-paced mechanical movement is. The true irony is that if the movement ran at 16,000,000 Hz, you'd never (ever) need to reset the time as it would be so accurate your distant ancestors would be able to rely on it. At 4 Hz you are lucky to be accurate to within 5 or so seconds a day.
aBlogtoWatch (ABTW): Who are you and what is your relationship to the watch industry?
I found Roger Smith himself truly a personable character, open and willing to explain everything that I wanted to know about him and about his watches. I found him as well, a man on a mission in what he had set out to do, and doing it in an extremely principled manner in the way that he had chosen to make his watches.
First modern grail watch would have been an 18k gold Cartier Pasha Chronograph.
Executed in beautiful copper-colored 18 carat gold, we have the Omega Aqua Terra GMT reference 22.214.171.124.06.002 in for review today. Defining the high end of the Aqua Terra GMT series, I was delighted when Omega offered to let me borrow one for review.
The case size is 43mm, which on my 6 ½ inch wrist, looks big without looking silly. The case is buttery soft due to the hand polishing and doesn’t get snagged under shirt cuffs. It uses an ETA Valjoux 7750 movement that beats at a rapid 28,800 vibrations/hr. The movement has been around since the mid-1970s and has a solid track record, although I understand its supply is being reduced by ETA. Frederique Constant has modified the movement by substituting an in-house made rotor that further incorporates the spirit of the the Peking To Paris event. The copper rotor is etched and painted with the event logo, and is limited to 1888 pieces (1988 was the year Frederique Constant was founded).
2013 will see a number of additions to the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 watch collection that started last year with mega 57.5mm wide Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 that included a rather amazing recreation of a competition movement. Never intended as a serious collection, the popularity of the Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 likely spurred enough noise that Zenith CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour decided to expand on the range. This new Zenith Pilot model is the most appreciated Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar, and includes the name Zenith El Primero caliber 4054 automatic movement produced in conjunction with maker designer Ludwig Oeschlin. This movement originally debuted in the Zenith Captain Winsor watch.
OK, now that we've satisfactorily plugged those, we'd like to mention something a bit new. We'd like your feedback on what to cover first and the most from the shows. By commenting on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, and on YouTube videos, you'll be able to tell myself and other aBlogtoWatch writers what interests you most during SIHH week. That way you won't have to wait a few months for us to get to the article. So use your words and hands to help shape what you see on aBlogtoWatch.
Moving on, I am very appreciative and grateful for the opportunity that Ariel has extended to me in this very brief few months. Running a blog like aBlogtoWatch is a tremendous task that I only realized recently. The fact that it is the biggest watch blog online by monthly traffic is surely a testament to the amount of work that has been done to make it so.
A lot of people have inquired to how all of this works so we'd like to give a basic overview of how aBlogtoWatch Watch Reviews work.
The screw-in crown is a finely machined feature. The knurled knob is well made. It is easy to use and has the signature Prometheus design icon on its end. This is a '3 - position' feature that offers 1) manual wind 2) date set and 3) time set respectively. Screw it in and its bank-vault tight for dust and water pressure resistance. Hint - dust is more of a worry for most watch wearers than water. My non-scientific measurement put the Baiji at about 13.5 mm thick so it should be just fine under most cuffs. It’s smooth and about as 'snag-free' as is to be expected.
It seems as though Porsche Design has recently totally abandoned their longstanding product naming scheme of "P'XXXX" when it comes to their watches. At least that is a fact on the website at this time. Plus, even though the name on the dial of the current generation watch says "Flat Six," Porsche Design seems to have renamed it to be "Flat6" on the website. Having said that, if you search for the models on Google, the official website doesn't show up very quickly. Let's get those fantastic designers you have to work on your corporate site Porsche Design.
Badollet is a brand that is not very well-known but has been quietly gaining recognition for this particular piece, the Ivresse, which I had a chance to see being made at their atelier in La Vallée de Joux near Geneva.
Add to that, the interior design, taking cues from a traditional gentleman’s club with its heavy wood paneling, plush comfortable chairs, bookshelves, various bits of memorabilia and a fully stocked bar, and it truly becomes an experience bound to be appreciated and approved by any Bremont fan.
Four star generals in the US military are quite rare but "Stormin' Norman" was among them. His strategic brilliance and legendary temper made him one of the 20th century's most iconic and archetypal major military leaders. Retired, he died at the age of 78 years old in Tampa, Florida several days ago at the end of 2012. One of his most famous quotes was "It doesn't take a hero to order men into battle. It takes a hero to be one of those men who goes into battle."
The Classique La Musicale isn't a brand new watch for 2013, but this particular ref. 7800BR/AA/9YV 02 model is. What is new is the song played as well as the design of the engraving on the dial. Despite the impressive detailing, the watch's special features are easily missed by just seeing the dial. Little details such as the music notes engraved into the side of the case and the clef counter-weight on one of the hands tips you off that there is something special going on here. What you have is a movement that has an alarm which when activated, plays a song. Breguet has wonderfully over-engineered the entire system to a degree that only people very experienced with musical watches will be able to appreciate what went into the design.
Inside each Chronofighter is a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement that Graham calls their caliber G1747. The 7750 is flipped and the 12 hour counter is removed. That leaves the time with subsidiary seconds on the dial, as well as the date (thankfully on a black disc) and a 30 minute chronograph. Legibility is very good with the properly-sized hour and minute hands with their somewhat vintage clock design. I would say that the black-on-black subsidiary seconds hand and dial could be easier to read, but I never paid much attention to it to be honest so I can hardly consider it an issue. If you want to measure the seconds, the very easy to spot chronograph seconds hand is for that. Graham also designs the chronograph minute counter a bit larger than you might expect, which makes it extremely easy to read.
At. 43.5mm wide in platinum this is going to be nicely heavy on the wrist for the one or few people that get one. It will show up in a museum someday, and it is interesting to see a brand like Greubel Forsey develop this while it is alive. I wonder what people 100 years from now will make of how its collection evolved.
Interview With Watch Maker Christophe Claret
14 Commentsby Nick Capehorn
Interview With Watch Maker Christophe Claret
Probably the most important element of the HM3 MegaWind is how you tell the time - this is where the most obvious "improvement" comes into play. The original HM3 was typically criticized for being hard to read... and it was. The HM3 MegaWind takes some production cues from the Frog to help retain the conical time tower design of the HM3, but improves it. Thus, the two cones are taller, totally wrapped in sapphire crystal, and now finally fully able to be read from the side or from the top.
The movement looks and performs as well as could be expected from much more expensive timepieces. The developments of the FC-700 movement family began in 2008 and, introduced in Baselworld 2009, it is the second base caliber of the manufacture. The FC-710 movement, which we will be looking at just now, is the second generation of the FC-700 movement, the difference being an added central seconds hand. The manufacture clearly listened to the public's feedback regarding the first generation, a most sorely missed - and now very welcome - feature is the central seconds hand. It completes the dial, and the overall look. The FC-710 movement, and the timepiece we are looking at now equipped with it, had been introduced in 2012.